Warm, humid air hisses from angry fumarole steam vents. Sulphurous, rotten egg odors waft from rainbow-hued hot springs. Thundering waterfalls rush through the pink-tangerine painted sands of the grand canyon. Galloping herds of bison kick up clouds of pale dust in the green valley.

Yellowstone’s features are so fantastical, that it is hard to believe that this place actually exists on planet Earth. Back when the region was first traversed in the 1800’s, early explorers were ridiculed for their seemingly mythical descriptions of this bizarre land.

Containing 10,000 thermal features — including the world’s greatest concentration of geysers — America’s first national park is a strange land of superlatives. It commands all of your senses, demanding your full attention. 

John Colter, an accomplished outdoorsmen who once journeyed on the Lewis and Clark expedition, embarked on a solo trek to the Yellowstone region in 1807. When he described the region’s scalding hot springs and bubbling mud pots to townsfolk, they scoffed at his tales of brimstone and fire. They called the place “Colter’s Hell,” mocking what they believed to be the delusions of a mad mountain man. 

Decades later in 1869, adventurer Charles Cook attempted to publish an account of similar experiences in the great Yellowstone region. Even decades later, stories of colorful acidic springs and powerful geysers were still too incredible for most people to believe. Lippincott's Magazine rejected his submission, remarking curtly, "Thank you, sir, but we do not print fiction."

As the first national park in not only America, but also the world, Yellowstone continues to enchant millions of visitors each year. The revolutionary concept of preserving wild landscapes for generations to come has been famously called “America’s Best Idea.” The rustic Roosevelt Arch at the Gardiner entrance proclaims the park’s democratic founding ideals: “For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People.” 

EXPLORING YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK-

Unlike all of our other sabbatical trip destinations, Yellowstone wasn’t a complete stranger to me. In high school, I explored the Yellowstone area as part of a summer eco-studies trip for an environmental science research program.

Sometimes your memories are rosier than reality… revisiting old haunts frequently triggers disappointment.

That was not the case with Yellowstone. She is just as magnificent as I remembered. It was a joy to share some of my favorite places with Adam and make some new memories. 

Any of the major attractions within the park would be a standalone destination of their own accord. Having such a concentration of extraordinary sights in one location is overwhelming. Yellowstone is like 20 parks all in one place! 

The Grand Loop road that transverses Yellowstone NP is in the shape of a figure eight. There are dozens of little sidebar boardwalk trails and scenic overlooks to visit.

Since most park education programs were canceled due to COVID, we downloaded a great GPS based audio tour iPhone app that narrated a self-guided driving tour of the park. It was a solid way to avoid some of the congested kiosk stations and still learn a lot about the park. 

We spotted trout in the clear waters flowing under Fishing Bridge, photographed galloping pronghorn at Lamar Valley, and skipped rocks in the wondrous Firehole River.

GEOTHERMAL WONDERLAND-

Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features are incredible… some favorites included the famous Fishing Cone at West Thumb, the vibrant Grand Prismatic Pool at Midway, the billowing Steamboat Geyser at Norris, and the roaring Dragon’s Mouth Springs at Mud Volcano.

With imaginative names like that, it’s impossible to resist seeing these marvels!

The power for these awesome hydrothermal features comes from roiling magma not far (a few thousand feet) below the surface of Yellowstone, meaning most of the park is perched on a relatively delicate section of the Earth’s crust. During a typical Old Faithful geyser eruption, water temperature at the vent has been measured at 204 degrees Fahrenheit. The famous geyser’s steam temperature has been measured above 350 degrees Fahrenheit!

Heat-loving thermophile bacteria living in the hot springs are the secret source of their glorious rainbow of colors. The smaller pools are alluring and may seem innocuous… but appearances can be deceiving. The temperatures are often >180°F, and pH of many of the mud pots is nearly as acidic as battery acid.

Illegal “Hot Potting” in these seemingly inviting pools is a dangerous sport that has led to many serious injuries and deaths.

Bacterial mats and thermophiles at Midway Geyser Basin

Colorful sands at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

BEYOND THE PARK-

After our too-brief tour of Yellowstone, we headed east to drive the spectacular 68-mile Beartooth Highway. In this vast, towering plateau we soaked in the alpine views and hiked a charming trail near Island Lake. Just outside the nearby town of Bozeman, I was excited to hike with a friend that I met long ago during the Yellowstone eco-study. I am so thankful that this sabbatical has allowed us to reconnect with people that we haven’t seen in literally 12 years! We hiked the beautiful Mount Ellis trail, winding through fields of wildflowers and conifer trees up to a sweeping overlook of Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. 

We were also privileged to have Adam’s parents join us in Montana for some fresh mountain air! Together, we explored Lewis & Clark Caverns, Madison Buffalo Jump, Missouri Headwaters State Park, and the northernmost section of Yellowstone. We celebrated Adam’s birthday with an amazing buffalo steak and wild-berry cheesecake.

OUR FAVORITE PLACES-

#1: Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (cannot go to Yellowstone without seeing these thundering waterfalls and majestic painted sands; Artist Point is a must see!)

#2: Norris Geyser Basin (hottest geothermals in the park; get there early in the morning to beat the crowds)

#3: Beartooth Pass (zig-zag through a winding mountain pass, climbing to a vast plateau with breathtaking views at 11,000 feet above sea level)

#4: Upper Geyser Basin/Old Faithful (nice boardwalk with dynamic geysers and thermal features)

#5: Firehole River (interesting river fed by hot springs and other geothermals; features multiple waterfalls)

____________________________________________________________________

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK STATS:

Established: March 1872     /      Size: 2.2 million acres

Annual Visitors: 4.1 million     /       Location: Montana/Wyoming

~Safe Travels, Nathalie

MISADVENTURES-

At dusk one evening, Adam spotted a beautiful herd of elk grazing by the side of the road with their fawns. Amid all the excitement, we accidentally got one of our truck tires stuck in a small depression in the pull-off area… thank goodness for 4-wheel drive! 

Also, there is currently a national coin shortage due to complications with COVID-19. As roving RVers who depend on coin-operated laundromats (so we don’t stink), finding stores who will dispense quarters has been surprisingly difficult. We now hoard all loose change like treasure!