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Otherworldly Grasslands

DESTINATION- Badlands National Park
LOCATION- Interior, South Dakota

DATE- July 2020

The broken expanse of the Badlands almost appears to be extraterrestrial. Walking through the pale, eroded canyons feels like walking on the surface of a strange moon. The unforgiving sun scorches the clay soils, forming flaking fissures and pockmarked patterns. 

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The word “badland” is actually a geologic term for an arid terrain characterized by soft sedimentary rocks that have been eroded away over time. Unlike the badlands formations that we saw at Theodore Roosevelt NP in North Dakota, the outcroppings in South Dakota’s Badlands NP seemed to have less pronounced color stratifications.
The region had less vegetation than even the harshest sections of Theodore Roosevelt. The sheer desolation of this region was beautiful in its own way. 

Badlands National Park is a hotbed for fossils. Paleontologists uncovered more than 19,000 fossils in the “Big Pig Dig” excavation. Strange animals used to roam the badlands. Researchers found the bones of archaeotherium (pig-like creatures), subhyracodon (hornless rhino-like creatures), mesohippus (horse-like creatures), and leptomeryx (hornless mouse-deer creatures). 

EXPLORING BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK-

Despite the blistering sun, the park is home to a surprising array of wildlife. We had some of our best wildlife encounters driving past the park’s numerous prairie dog towns. Prairie dogs are a vital keystone species. These chattering ground squirrels provide food, shelter, and habitat which benefit 150 other species including the endangered black footed ferret, swift foxes, ferruginous hawk, and bison.

In the late afternoon, we were delighted to spot three tiny burrowing owls perched on some prairie dog mounds; these avian squatters live in abandoned burrows. The prairie dogs seemed fairly apathetic to their presence. Upon further research, we learned that these small owls will occasionally eat dead prairie dogs or babies. But they prefer other prey like mice or insects... so they are *generally* a good neighbor. Burrowing owls are pretty much the definition of a “frenemy!” 

On our drive, we also saw a number of bighorn sheep. Several wore large radio collars so researchers could track their movements. I held my breath nervously when I saw one sheep boldly clamber down the edge of a steep sloped canyon… but he was as surefooted as he was fearless.

At the end of our visit, we were rewarded with views of the picturesque Yellow Mounds and stunning sunsets. 

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OUR FAVORITE PLACES-

#1: Notch Trail (pleasant canyon hike with steep cliff drop-offs, overlooking the grasslands; wooden step ladder to reach the ridge)

#2: Sheep Mountain Table Road (remote 4WD road overlooking rock formations, meadows, and scenic cliff outcroppings)

#3: Door Trail (short trail overlooking the desolate expanse of the badlands)

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MISADVENTURES-

When you see a sign that says “High Clearance Vehicles Only”--they really mean it! When driving to Sheep Mountain Table Road, we drove through 2 foot tall ruts to reach the most spectacular sunset views. The first stretch of the road was deceptively flat and easy terrain--but the last section was riddled with potholes, rocks, and muddy depressions. We were quite grateful to have 4 wheel drive action on our pick-up truck, or else we might’ve gotten stuck!

Oh and while hiking through the hot arid Badlands, my superglued boot (the one that had its treads ripped off during our hike at Voyageurs) came apart again. So new hiking boots it is! 

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BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK STATS:

Established: November 1978      /      Size: 244,000 acres

Annual Visitors: 900,000     /       Location: South Dakota

~Safe Travels, Nathalie

2,850 miles traveled and 6 national parks explored